Temper Anthracite – Riot Fashion

Art, Fashion

Berlin and its vast diversity impresses at all time, in every new street, and makes of Berlin the place to go for everyone who is looking for variety. So it is the local artistic movements, in which everyday there is room for new artists and their different styles and shapes, making of Berlin a place recognized for its capacity of mixing many types of art, coming from all over the place.

By researching artists in Berlin that make art beyond common sense I found the fashion artist Jennifer, founder of the berliner brand Temper Anthracite. This creation has its origins and influences coming from feminist punk and intends to transform womyn emancipation into beautiful pieces that are loved by people with refined taste.

Doing fashion for love, not for arts

Having the black as inspiration of this art

In a relation of love and hate with Berlin: Temper Anthracite.

When asked about the origins of the name “Anthracite”, Jennifer afirmed that this is her brand since she realized she wanted to have clothes that would differ from the “Punkrocker” and “Riot Grrrl” uniforms for their style is considered to be inexpressive and following mass fashion patterns. From this moment on she started to learn how to sew and how to create clothes that would be able to externalize this wish. Considered a multitask artist, Jennifer, besides sewing also models and photographs her own pieces.

Even though Anthracite has now some elements that compose the recent pieces it works with the idea that they will change and will be always  moving towards clients demands by developing new techniques, using new fabrics and ideas and having a dynamic composition

This collection is part of my post-graduation project and was inspired by the Riot Grrrl feminism, that brings up issues like justice, equality and deconstructs prejudices, values also important for myself”, says Jennifer.

Following the idea that neither men or women should allow themselves to live under certain cliches and that they can express themselves just by being themselves, Temper Anthracite promotes fashion that allow people this feeling by breaking stereotypes and discouraging people that perpetrate sexist through comments on how people look for they are banalized through the fashion collections, that are therefore “out of scene”.

“Feminism means finishing off oppression  prohibitions, expectations and grief. Nowadays the clothes I make are clearly not afraid of sex but connected to it directly, proposing that our bodies and sexuality should be enjoyed in favor of sex. Nothing should be forbidden, unapproved or hidden but in a movement that’s not at all decadent or despicable…” comments Jennifer.

Fashion has always been influenced by underground cultures and so was Temper Anthracite’s designer, that lives in Berlin this underground capital that hosts worldwide art. When asked about the brand’s target audience, she said in a couple of words what she believes to be the “Anthracite woman”:

My typical client is a self-assured, confident woman, intelligent and concerned. She needs to affirm her identity and uses style as a way of escaping everyday mediocrities. She dresses herself elegantly and discretely and at the same time she fights stereotypical aesthetics conventions. She likes functional and sophisticated clothes that are ready for emotions, danger, suffering  beauty and sex, alltogether. The passion and love are intense. She loves. She is impressive… “Anthracite” is a lifestyle for those who identify with it.”

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Since she started designing clothes, her pieces were never conventional but had an authenticity, that she describes as “real”. They were not designed for catwalks or beautiful editorials, but for everyday life, she also admits she would use them herself. Real is also the  creational process for all the pieces are drawn in a piece of paper instead of being produced in computer programs like CAD. She   spends long lonely moments drawing until she finds a final idea. For her this process comes from intuition and love for the sewing arts and for all she does, even though sometimes they are hard to be conceived. But when the results start to show, she feels butterflies in her stomach and  tastes indescribable pleasure as she sees them: “OMG! OMG! There it is, it’s real! Real and great!”.

The artist Jennifer uses energy, vitality, the wish for innovation, rage and passion to develop her pieces and guarantees that this is what makes the different when you see the final product, for it transports all these feelings to women that wear them, having them feel stronger and better, keeping fashion alive.  “My creation process sometimes gets me feeling like I am a lion tamer, holding a chair and a whip, so the pieces pop up done.”

Jennifer also participates in a project for Vogue Italy, Photovogue, where she exhibits her own photos after they were approved by the meticulous look of the project’s curator, therefore her work as a photographer move towards the right direction.

Another interesting project also available for sale in her website is the colection for plus size women (XXL). When asked about it and what inspired her, she proudly said:

“The first goal was to create a plus size collection for women with curves, big breasts and hips. The second goal was to create a masculine collection meant to be solid and interesting. Among many stuff I have heard about my pieces it was common people said: “I wish it was my size!”, or “Why don’t you do clothes for men too?”. So the idea was to make the project broader so more people would feel empowered and more beautiful, specially women whose bodies do not fit in nowadays beauty standards.”

“I wanted my work to represent a wider variety of people: super thin women, XXL bodies full of curves and men.  Usually the XXL clothes are tacky and there are not many options, making it hard to find clothes that really express you strength and beauty. Therefore I decided to change this conception and tried not to exclude any types of bodies based on gender or types of body, an idea that I have been longing to accomplish for a while.

“Anthracite’s collections do not have easy acess to regular shops and therefore it has its own online shop where you can see them all either in german or in english, besides seing more details and also the support we got, which shows we have achieved our aim. We do custom pieces, impressions, bracelets, limited edition pieces, and they can all be seen from the backstage, and decide on which should be made and how many are going to be made. The same happens for a private photo shooting!” 

To buy collection pieces and more go to: anthracite-shop.de. In case you want any piece tailored or custom, go to the shop FAQ and you will find instructions on how to procede.

 

Pics by Anthracite.de

DE: www.startnext.de/anthracite-kollektionen

EN: www.startnext.de/en/anthracite-kollektionen

 

 

 

 


Vivi Gnutzmann

Visual Merchandiser and Window Displayer by choice, Vivi is graduated in Fashion Design, Literature and German. Nowadays she works with Online Marketing, Social Media and as a translator. A handywoman is a way to define her, who is still studying, even though she doesn’t know exactly where that will take her in the future. In her personal blog, writes about bathrooms but wishes to do it more frequently because writing is one of her passions. If she had to pick a soundtrack for her life at this moment would be from Drive’s OST, who recently has replaced “Echo & The Bunnymen”. Is passionate about music, art, german literature, cinema and Berlin, the city she calls home these days.

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